Epoxy flooring contractor in Bali

Preparation is the trade. Slabs are diamond-ground or shot-blasted to an open profile rather than acid-etched and hoped for, cracks are routed out and filled with resin mortar, and every edge, gully and upstand is detailed before the first primer goes down. Where moisture readings come back high, we specify a vapour-tolerant primer or a suppressant membrane instead of pretending the number will improve. That single step separates a floor that lasts eight years from one that peels in its second wet season.

Build-ups run from a two-coat roller system for light-duty rooms, through self-levelling resin at 2–3 mm for a flat, joint-free finish, up to trowel-applied industrial systems for forklift traffic and commercial kitchens. Anti-slip grade is chosen deliberately: broadcast aggregate where floors get wet or greasy, a finer grade where cleaning matters more than grip. We will tell you which one your room actually needs, including when the cheaper answer is the right one.

Why epoxy fails on tropical slabs

Nearly every failed epoxy floor we are asked to strip failed for the same reason: moisture. A 150 mm slab poured on Bali ground and covered before it dried holds enough water to push a coating off months later. Ground-bearing slabs without a working vapour barrier keep supplying it indefinitely, drawn up from soil that never really dries out between wet seasons.

The symptoms are always the same — small blisters that pop underfoot, then sheets lifting at edges and around drains. It is not a product fault, and no number of extra coats fixes it. The answer is measurement before specification: relative humidity probes set into the slab, pull-off adhesion tests on the surface, and a decision made on those readings. If the slab is wet, either it dries, or it gets a moisture-tolerant primer or suppressant membrane, or we recommend a different floor entirely and say why.

Choosing a system for the room, not the brochure

A domestic garage, a restaurant kitchen and a warehouse aisle punish a floor in completely different ways, so we specify by duty. Light rooms and storage take a two-coat roller system: cheap, fast, easy to recoat in a few years. Homes, gyms and showrooms usually want self-levelling resin at 2–3 mm, which hides slab imperfections and gives a flat surface that mops clean without grout lines.

Kitchens and production areas need a trowelled build-up at 4–6 mm with quartz broadcast for grip, coved up the wall so there is no dirt trap at floor level and falls kept true toward the gully. Forklift traffic wants the same thickness for impact rather than hygiene. Getting the direction wrong costs money twice: over-specify and you paid for thickness nobody uses, under-specify and the floor is worn through inside a season.